Max’s Favourite Churches and Abbeys in France
Europe and the UK are famous for their churches, cathedrals, and abbeys, awe-inspiring architectural wonders that encompass so much history and so many stories. During our recent scouting trip for our Plantagenets In France tour, to my delight, we visited many of them. It has been very hard to choose my favourites, but finally I was able to narrow it down to my top 5. They are not necessarily the grandest, but they are the ones with which I felt a real personal connection.
According to the Observatoire du Patrimoine Religieux (Religious Heritage Observatory), in France alone there are over 70,000 religious buildings and at the point of compiling the inventory, it was still not complete(4 years ago). I am sure over the coming years as our tours take in different cities and regions in France, I will visit more and more of them and I will have to redo this list, but at the moment here it is…
Enjoy!
# 5 -
Abbaye du Mont Saint-Michel
The construction of the Abbey over a period of 1300 years on a tidal island that was by no means hospitable, is a real testament to the perseverance and technical talent of several generations of builders. Not only has it been a major place of Christian pilgrimage in the west, but also a centre of medieval culture. It has often been given the nickname “City of Books” owing to the fact that it was here where a large number of manuscripts were produced and stored. The incredible history of this site began in 708 and continued right through to the 19th century when restorations were still being done, this certainly explains the diversity of architectural styles you will see.
Maybe this also explains my personal feeling of being totally overwhelmed by the Abbey, it was so big, and just seemed to have a busy feel to it, not quite the peace and calm that I expected. The Cloisters on the other hand was a totally different story, I am not sure why but I always feel drawn to the Cloisters when visiting these religious sites. I often find a sense of tranquility and calm within, even in the midst of busy crowds, that is in total contrast with the rest of these structures. This particular Cloisters was all the more so because of its location, sitting at an altitude of 80 metres, the view of the bay from the Cloisters was incredible. What a perfect place for contemplation, I can only imagine the feeling of complete serenity the monks enjoyed as they wandered the halls of this building.
# 4 -
L’Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud
Founded in the very early 12th century by Robert D’Arbrissel, this unique site is a must-see for anybody visiting the Loire Valley. The burial place of royalty, notably Eleanor of Aquitaine and her husband Henry II, it is one of the largest surviving monastic complexes from the Middle Ages. At a time when religious sites housed either men or women, Fontevraud was a place of shelter for both men and women in four different priories: Sainte-Marie for the ‘contemplatives’, Sainte-Marie-Madeleine for the lay sisters, Saint-Jean de l’Habit for the monks, and Saint-Lazare for the nuns who cared for lepers. During the French Revolution, all the monks and nuns departed and it was transformed into one of the harshest prisons in France, remaining that way until 1963.
I have learnt over the last couple of decades about many strong independent women that I truly admire, Eleanor of Aquitaine was, however, my first ‘heroine’, and as such Fontevraud will always be very special for me. It was the site I was most excited about visiting and it certainly did not disappoint. Such a tranquil place, it is easy to see why after such a tumultuous life, Eleanor chose to become a nun and spend her last days here. The presence of all those who walked these corridors, and prayed in these chapels can still be felt today, despite it being almost 1000 years ago.
# 3 -
Eglise Paroissiale Saint-Pierre
Whilst wandering the cobblestone streets and alleys of Mont Saint-Michel it is difficult not to focus on the magnificent Abbey at the summit, be careful though, by doing that you may a real hidden gem. Part way up the Grande Rue is an unassuming arch that blends in with the stonework all around, go through the arch, up a few steps in an alley, and there you will find the beautiful Parish church of Eglise Paroissiale Saint-Pierre. Although the church is dedicated to Saint-Pierre, the patron saint of fishermen, in recognition of its location on Mont Saint-Michel, inside you will find a glorious statue of Saint Michael the archangel slaying the dragon.
Behind the church, you will find a quaint little cemetery and the bell tower, not only providing a landmark to get your bearings, but reminding us of the passing of time. This is another one of the many churches we came across on our travels, that are overshadowed by the grandeur of the more magnificent and well-known cathedrals and abbeys. I loved it though, it was so welcoming and cosy, a place where you can enjoy the peace, totally oblivious to the hustle and bustle of the crowds outside. Although I am not a Catholic and therefore would not take part in the masses that are offered most days, I would have no hesitation in taking time to simply sit, pray and contemplate in the serene and spiritual surroundings, it is wonderful bread for the soul.
# 2 -
Sanctuaire Notre-Dame de Rocamadour
Further down the track, I will write a more detailed blog post about Rocamadour, but this particular effort is primarily about just the shrine of Our Lady of Rocamadour. There have been many stories regarding the origin of the 69 cm tall 12th-century walnut statue, with some claiming she was brought from the holy land by Saint Amadour. The miracles began in 1166 when the intact body of the blessed Saint Amadour was found in the rock face. Geraud d’Escorailles wrote the Book of Miracles in 1172, which documents the 126 miracles performed by the Madonna.
Before long, Rocamadour became one of the top four pilgrimage sites in France, with many saints, kings, and queens coming here to seek the blessing of the Holy Virgin, including our own King Henry II and his queen Eleanor, Louis IX and his queen Blanche of Castille, and the renowned St Bernard of Clairveaux. It really gave me goosebumps, gazing with awe upon this statue, and knowing that hundreds of thousands of people had made the arduous and gruelling pilgrimage to pray right here where I was standing. I found myself thinking of just how challenging and slow their progress would have been, without the luxury of paved walkways or bitumen roads. Admittedly those nobles, saints, and royalty would have made the journey on horseback but the majority of pilgrims would have traversed these mountains and valleys on foot through bush tracks, not for days but for months to get here. The thought was actually very humbling.
# 1 -
Eglise de Sainte-Radegonde
And now for my absolute favourite, I am fascinated by medieval heroines and I guess that is why I felt drawn to this church in particular. It is probably not most people’s choice, especially in Poitiers where you are spoiled for choice when it comes to churches, however, I do encourage you to check this one out if you are ever in this gorgeous city. Although dating from the 6th century when it took its name from the venerated Saint Radegonde, Frankish queen and nun, the current building dates from the 11th and 12th centuries. The chapel itself is stunning, with a series of 16 stained glass windows partially dating from the 13th century depicting the life of Radegonde.
The nave leads to her tomb below the chancel, step below to discover the crypt, and the sarcophagus with its marble statue, a gift donated by Anne of Austria in gratitude for the cure of her son, the future Louis XIV. I find it hard to find words to describe this church, connection is the only word I can think of, but how do you have a connection with somebody who lived and died over 1400 years ago? Maybe as women, we have a kindred link that is not diminished by the sands of time. Here was a princess who was a pawn, married off to a brutal man, albeit he was a king. Taking her destiny into her own hands, she fled and sought the protection of the church. For the rest of her life, she devoted her skills as a gifted healer to the service of others, one cannot help but admire her strength and dedication, and possibly that was what I felt, standing beside her tomb in that quiet crypt.
I hope you have enjoyed my top 5 churches and abbeys in France, there are so many that we saw and so many more that we did not get to, but that is for another time. If you like what you see, you will find these churches and others on the itinerary for our Plantagenets in France tour.
Max
All church photos © Plantagenet Discoveries
