Rocamadour (Part 2) - The Divine Sanctuaries
Made up of a series of religious buildings built around a central courtyard (parvis) are the Divine Sanctuaries.
During the 13th century, at the height of the Middle Ages and Rocamadour’s glory, there would have been 19 churches, (seven of these were restored in the 19th century), all of which were the destination of the thousands of pilgrims who would visit Rocamadour each year.
These religious structures were made from local limestone, and built into the side of the cliff in such a way that even today, it gives the impression of them actually being part of the breathtaking natural surroundings. Separating the lower town from the sacred chapels, some of which date back to the 11th century, are the 216 steps of the Great Staircase. As an act of penance, the Medieval pilgrims would traverse the steps on their knees, to reach the final destination of their pilgrimage, which was the shrine of the Black Madonna. I guess it is easy to think “it is after all just a staircase, even on your knees”, but we must bear in mind that this was after they had already travelled for weeks or even months, distances of hundreds of miles or more for some. For the nobility, it would have been on horseback but for the majority, they would have faced the challenges of forest, rivers, weather, and extremely rugged terrain on foot. We really do have it easy now, don’t we? Today if you are not up to the climb or choose not to, we have the luxury of a lift that moves between the three levels (lower town, sanctuaries, and the castle) making it much easier on all of us. I have to admit I have not climbed the steps myself, instead choosing the easier route of coming down from the top level as opposed to going up to get to the chapels. I do, however, intend to climb them in September when we travel to Rocamadour again.
Today the Sanctuaries comprise one church (a basilica), six chapels, and a crypt, all of which tell their own story…
Initially a funeral chapel, Chapelle Saint-Jean-Baptiste was transformed into a baptistry in the 19th century. The chapel itself is octagonal in shape reminding us of the incarnation and resurrection of Christ. It includes portraits of some of the great pilgrims that have visited, and still houses the tomb of Jean de Vallon, knight of the order of Saint Jean of Jerusalem.
Underneath the Basilique Saint Sauveur lies the crypt of Saint-Amadour, a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 12th century. It is of a very simple design with a single nave and no altar or transept. In 1562 during the wars of religion when the Huguenots plundered and burned the sanctuary, local inhabitants saved some of the saint's bones which were placed in a small reliquary and hidden.
Boasting a 17th century gilded altar screen, Chapelle Saint-Anne is flanked by Basilique of Saint Sauveur on one side and Chapelle Saint-Blaise on the other. Inside is a 19th century stained glass window depicting the Virgin as a young maid with her parents Saint Anne and Saint Joachim as well as the dove of the Holy Spirit looking after her.
The next of the chapels, Chapelle Saint-Louis is very interesting, named for the canonised King Louis IX, who made the pilgrimage to Rocamadour in 1244 with his mother, Blanche of Castille and his brothers, in recent times it has taken on the role of something totally different. It is now dedicated to rugby players, and prayers are said for those injured during a game. Visiting the chapel you will see on display the shirts of many famous rugby players from all over the world.
The highest sanctuary of the shrine is Chapelle Saint-Michel, it has no roof or western wall as the chapel was carved directly into the rock. Interesting is the fact that throughout the Middle Ages pilgrims did not have access to this chapel as it was strictly devoted to the Benedictine monks. It is famous for the medieval frescos on the interior and exterior walls. One, in particular, depicts “the visitation and the annunciation” and seems to be exceptionally well preserved for a 13th-century fresco, especially considering that often claims are made that no one has ever restored it. This fact remains unsubstantiated, but due to the overhanging cliff it is certainly well protected from the forces of nature.
Last but definitely not least is Chapelle Notre-Dame, the most worshipped and visited chapel of the Sanctuaries and the primary reason for pilgrims travelling to Rocamadour throughout the Middle Ages. Three of its walls were dug out of the cliff face, in 1456 a rock fall destroyed part of the chapel, which caused Denys de Bar, the bishop of Tulle to have it rebuilt in a flamboyant Gothic style. If you look up and see the rusty chains hanging from the wall, these were used by pilgrims during penitential ceremonies.
The Courtyard (parvis) lies at the centre of the shrine, simply because it leads to all of the sanctuaries and consists of two levels. The lower part which is accessed through the Saint Martial Gate and the Great Staircase, and the upper part which gives access to Chapelle Notre-Dame, as well as Chapelle Saint-Michel and Basilique Saint Sauveur. On the upper part is a most important site, the empty tomb where the intact and uncorrupted body of Saint Amadour was found in 1166, if you look down you will see all the coins thrown by visitors to the shrine.
The sanctuaries are not just important religious sites and a vital part of France’s cultural heritage that have been carefully preserved over the centuries, but also marvels of medieval architecture. Whether you are a religious pilgrim, a history buff, or a fan of medieval architecture, these incredible structures will have you totally enthralled.
Keep an eye out for the next installment of my Rocamadour blog The Pilgrims of Rocamadour (Part 3)
Are you keen to see more, check out our Plantagenets in France tour where we will not only visit this incredible historical site but many more as well.
Max
All photos © Plantagenet Discoveries
